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The x-, y- or z- value of the accelerometer. A raw version for each function gives access to data without calibration.Ĭalculates the angle of the joystick in radians. Nunchuk_joystickY_raw() / nunchuk_joystickY(): Nunchuk_joystickX_raw() / nunchuk_joystickX() Instead of nunchuk_print() a lot of functions can be used to acces the actual data: Nunchuk Functionsġ or 0, whether the Z button is pressed or notġ or 0, whether the C button is pressed or not When starting the Processing file shipped with the library, you can balance this cone with your Nunchuk: nunchuk_init_power() // A1 and A2 is power supply In order to use the Nunchuk with your Arduino, only the following is needed: #include The speed of the I 2C bus is set to Fast Mode (400kHz) by default. The communication with the Nunchuk is made via the TWI bus, which is just another name for I 2C (okay, some details are different, which doesn't matter for our purposes however). If you're interested in the details, I'll explain this in a minute anyway. In fact, you shouldn't worry about what's going on behind the scenes, it should work just out of the box. I wrote a small header library, which implements the communication with the Nunchuk. The following Fritzing sketch illustrates the connection: If you want to use the WiiChuck or a similar Nunchuk adapter, connect 3v3 with A2 and GND with A1 - you will later need to call nunchuk_init_power() to initialize these power supply connectors. Arduino got a voltage regulator, which allows us to use 3v3 directly. The used acronyms are: nc for not connected, SDA - the data line (must be connected with A4 on the Arduino board) and SCL - the clock (connected with A5). When looking frontal on the plug, you'll see these pins:įor the original Nunchuk, the following is the color and pin-layout of the connector:įor the Nunchuk clone I got, the following is the color and pin-layout of the connector:Īs I said, you should defintely look at how the wires are layed out and not connect anything by it's color. Okay, let's go to work and open the connector: Another strange thing is, the original controller has 4 wires and the replica got 5, while the connector actually has 6 pins. This is especially important for Nunchuk replicas, since the wires can be connected randomly. I recommend opening the plug, since you can see how the wires are connected to the pins. You can get a Nunchuk adapter for a few bucks, if you don't want to do this drastic step, but with some soldering skills, you should be able to repair the plug anyway. As I don't have a Wii and will not use the controllers for something gaming-related, I ripped apart the connectors. Nintendo connects all peripherals with a proprietary plug. So, if you want a long-living controller, I would go with the original, if you just need a cheap input device, you might have luck with a Nunchuk copy. However, I applied a Kalman Filter, which levels these differences. Also the quality of the accelerometer of the original is better.
WII U SERIAL NUMBER RIPPED FULL
The joystick of the original has a higher quality, it can resolve all movements in the full range of values, while the copy doesn't react to minimal movements. What I can say is, the wires of the cable of the original Nunchuk are shielded, which makes them more robust against disturbances. Both versions are far away from expensive, but the difference is about 10-15€. In order to test my Nunchuk driver, I bought both - the original and a cheap copy. The big question is, should you buy an original Nintendo Nunchuk or a chinese replica. As a minimum, you'll need the following parts for this set-up: Parts It's recommended to operate the Nunchuk with 3v3 and you should defintely use a level shifter if you can't supply that voltage to increase it's lifespan. On top of the device is an analog two-axis joystick and the whole device is sensible to movements, since an accelerometer measures forces acting on all three dimensions. The Nunchuk has two membrane buttons, called button C and button Z. In this article, I'll guide you through the details and implement it for an Arduino. That's why I focused on filling this gap and here it is.
WII U SERIAL NUMBER RIPPED CODE
As it is so easy, I thought there must be a standard solution for it, but couldn't find a stable implementation, but only loads of code snippets. As it uses I 2C as transportation protocol, it's easy to access the raw data of the controller. A great invention of Nintendo is the Nunchuk, a cheap extension for the Wii U remote. We've all grown up with gamepads in the hands, which makes them ideal to combine them with literally any possible application. Using a Wii Nunchuk with Arduino December 19th, 2016.